This DIY walk was set up as part of the short-term exhibition ‘Never Built Kop Java‘ in the summer of 2023.
Combine your visit to Arcam with an architectural trip to the subject location: the tip of the Java Island. Once there, take your time to sit on a bench and watch the city of Amsterdam from a river point of view.
Length: 1.6 km
Duration: walking without reading 22 min. / cycling without reading 8 min
Google Maps Route
1. Arcam
Arcam is located in the heart of the city, on the Prins Hendrikkade. The building, designed by René van Zuuk, is compact and sculptural, with three layers connected by voids.
The exhibition space and information point are on the Prins Hendrikkade level. The lower level, by the water, is used for small discussions, large meetings, and receiving school classes. Since 2020, this space also houses the Amsterdam Timeline 2000-2030. The office spaces are on the top floor.
The building is clad in coated aluminum, which is folded around the building from the roof to the ground. The sculptural form of the entrance on the city side is notable. On the waterside, the facade is entirely made of glass.
2. The Maritime Museum
The Maritime Museum in Amsterdam is housed in the former ‘s Lands Zeemagazijn. The museum contains the largest maritime collection in the world. The building dates back to 1656 and was designed by Daniel Stalpaert. Stalpaert was appointed city architect of Amsterdam in 1648. Besides designing ‘s Lands Zeemagazijn, Stalpaert is also known for realizing the Town Hall on Dam Square, designed by Jacob van Campen.
The large city expansion of 1663 was also carried out by Stalpaert. The building was reopened in 2011 after years of renovation and remodeling designed by DOK architects. The most significant change to the monumental building is the glass roof over the courtyard, inspired by the lines of wind roses and compass lines on old maritime maps.
3. COWO (Commandantswoning Marineterrein)
Architectural Firm: F.C. de Weger
Construction Years: 1962-1966
A large part of the Marine Dock was filled in the 1960s, giving the Marineterrein its current form. The area was redeveloped with modernist buildings, including the Commandant’s House and the Command Building. Both buildings were designed by engineering and architectural firm F.C. de Weger between 1962-1966.
The architecture of the Commandant’s House is typical of 1960s villa construction. The house was built as a service residence for the commander. The cubic brick building has two floors. The ground floor is intended for representation, and the first floor for private quarters. A bunker is located under the building. The building has a robust concrete structure and standardized construction. The facade has windows of various sizes. Open and closed facade sections create an exciting composition. The frames are originally made of steel.
The house is connected to the Command Building by a canopy. Beautiful gardens and terraces, presumably designed by H. Warnau, have been laid out around the buildings. In the early 1990s, the house was renovated and restored by architect Manfred Kausen at the suggestion of Government Architect Kees Rijnboutt.
4. History Marineterrein
The Marineterrein has been used by the Admiralty of Amsterdam since 1655, and later by the Royal Navy. It has been known as the Marine Etablissement Amsterdam since 1915. The area is between the Oosterdok, Kattenburgerstraat, and Dijksgracht. Initially, the Admiralty’s shipyards were located in Uilenburg, but around 1620 they were moved to Rapenburg and later, in 1655, to the Eastern Islands.
On Kattenburg, ‘s Lands Zeemagazijn was built along with a shipyard building. The western part of the complex was demolished in 1962 for the construction of the IJ Tunnel. In 2015, the front yard of the area opened to the public. The second part of the dock opened in 2016. A walking and cycling route was laid along the water of the Oosterdok to the Dijksgracht. A bicycle and pedestrian bridge was also opened in 2016 over the Dijksgracht, providing an additional connection between the Eastern Islands and Central Station.
Since 2015, the Ministry of Defense has gradually withdrawn from the area. In 2018, Defense was supposed to transfer the remaining buildings to the Rijksvastgoedbedrijf. The buildings were to be temporarily used for non-military functions from that point on. Ultimately, this did not happen, and Defense continues to use part of the area due to strategic reconsiderations.
5. Marineterrein Amsterdam
Developments
Step by step, the Marineterrein is becoming more accessible to the public. Research was conducted in 2016 and 2017 to assess the quality of the area and explore development possibilities and future destinations. This resulted in the principle note, which designates the Marineterrein as a future-proof urban quarter where open innovation is possible. Additionally, the area will consist of accessible and flexible work and meeting spaces, housing, sports, recreation, and green spaces. New construction started in 2021. Several existing buildings on the site will be preserved.
According to the 2017 principle note, 50% of the Marineterrein is designated as a public recreation area. The strip along the water is designated as public space with greenery and movement opportunities. The front yard with lawns and old trees is designated as a park. The eastern half of the site is designated for development. Since 2018, (temporary) knowledge institutions, creatives, start-ups, and technology companies have been housed in the old buildings, awaiting the final redevelopment.
According to the 2017 plans, about half of the future space will be office space for new economy companies wanting to establish their research and development departments in the city. Twenty percent will go to educational institutions, another twenty percent to housing, and the remaining ten percent to social functions.
Read more: Marineterrein: Urban Quarter with Innovation at Its Core – City of Amsterdam
6. Monumental Wall Marineterrein
The Marine Yard area was formerly a secured enclosed area for the city of Amsterdam. On one side, there was a defensive wall, and on the other side, water. Along Kattenburgerstraat, part of this original defensive wall remains. The wall of the Marineterrein has been designated as a municipal monument to preserve the maritime history.
The wall on Kattenburgerstraat consists of the rear facades of a row of buildings that have disappeared over time. The oldest parts of the wall probably date back to the 17th century, with the northern part dating from the late 20th century.
7. Kattenburgerkruisstraat / Olifantswerf
The Marine Yard area was formerly a secured enclosed area for the city of Amsterdam. On one side, there was a defensive wall, and on the other side, water. Along Kattenburgerstraat, part of this original defensive wall remains. The wall of the Marineterrein has been designated as a municipal monument to preserve the maritime history. The wall on Kattenburgerstraat consists of the rear facades of a row of buildings that have disappeared over time. The oldest parts of the wall probably date back to the 17th century, with the northern part dating from the late 20th century.
The history of Kattenburgerkruisstraat can be divided into two periods. The street was named in 1889. During this period, this part of the harbor area was cleared of shipping/shipbuilding and related companies to make way for housing. In the 1960s, Kattenburg was redeveloped and restructured. Starting in 1963, the street and neighborhood faced the declaration of uninhabitability of the houses, which were eventually demolished. During the redevelopment, the three Kattenburgerdwarsstraten and the Kattenburgervoorstraat disappeared. The new Kattenburgerkruisstraat was established in 1974 on the grounds of the former Tweede Kattenburgerdwarsstraat.
The buildings that previously lay along Kattenburgerkruisstraat were demolished. In their place, low-rise concrete flats were built around 1976 on either side of the street, belonging to the Rochdale housing corporation. The buildings constructed in 1976 were designed by the architectural firm Apon, Van den Berg, and Braak. The homes were intended for the returning residents of the original houses.
8. Marinekazerne Amsterdam / Defensity College
As you come off the Jan Schaefer Bridge cycling, you can already see it lying there. The building with the hundreds of little windows, the office of the Royal Netherlands Marechaussee. The Maritime Museum, with its five-layer form and courtyard reminiscent of a fort, was the inspiration for the new Marechaussee office on the north side. The ‘black box,’ literally the same dimensions as the Maritime Museum, is clad in black stones. The pattern of 1,750 identical windows, recessed into the facade, is striking. This makes the building layout, divided into five layers, unrecognizable from the outside. The facade is explicitly designed to shield the staff.
The design considers this by offering employees a view where possible but never allowing them to be seen from the outside. At some points, the facade even works like a black bar over the eyes. Along the street side, anonymity is guaranteed by a corridor separating the office spaces and the facade.
Sunlight significantly determines the building’s appearance. During the day, the stones glisten in the sun, and at night, when the light is on inside, it is clear that the facade is more than a third glass. The lower strip of windows is equipped with extra light to give the building a distinct plinth. The main entrance is on the first deck and can be reached via a ramp accessible to cars. Below the deck are a parking garage, a workshop, and storage for equipment. Thanks to the use of much glass and colorful wooden sunshades, the courtyard has a remarkably cheerful and transparent character.
9. Pakhuis de Zwijger
Architects: J. de Bie Leuveling Tjeenk and K. Bakker
Year of Construction: 1933-34
Pakhuis de Zwijger is a former cold storage warehouse on Piet Heinkade in the Eastern Docklands of Amsterdam. De Zwijger was built in 1933-34 for the storage of perishable goods and was one of the most modern warehouses of the time. The building was designed in the New Objectivity style by architects J. de Bie Leuveling Tjeenk and K. Bakker.
The building eventually lost its original function and was threatened with demolition due to vacancy. Additionally, a bridge was planned across the IJ Harbor, directly through the building, which threatened the warehouse’s existence. Ultimately, the bridge was built while preserving the warehouse. Additionally, the building was restored by Stadsherstel Amsterdam.
In 1966, the neighboring warehouse Vrieshuis Amerika was squatted. The preservation and repurposing of the current building stem from this action. The Vrieshuis foundation, which had occupied warehouse Amerika, lobbied the municipality of Amsterdam to give Pakhuis de Zwijger an innovative, culturally diverse function.
Since 2006, the cultural institution Pakhuis de Zwijger has been housed in the former warehouse. De Zwijger functions as a platform for creation and social innovation in the city. The programming is aimed at bringing together people and projects contributing to developing a more sustainable, fair, and future-proof society.
10. Voormalig Pakhuis Afrika
Architects: Joling, A.J. / J. de Bie Leuveling Tjeenk
Year of Construction: 1915/1935
The first warehouse on this site was built in 1883-1885. It was designed, along with the warehouses Europa and Azië, by W. van Lookeren Campagne and E. Confeld von Felbert. The client was N.V. Handelskade, which later became part of the Blauwhoedenveem.
That building burned down entirely in 1913. The reconstruction in 1915 was designed by Antoon Joling. Mushroom columns were used in the concrete skeleton, an early example of such application in the Netherlands.
In 1935, the exterior was renewed according to a design by J. de Bie Leuveling Tjeenk. It was found that the concrete structure was too close to the surface and thus began to rust. Therefore, the facade was filled with brickwork.
Since 2006, the building has been partially overshadowed by the residential building Afrika, designed by Kees Christiaanse. The realization of this residential building was part of an urban development plan by KCAP architects, realized between 1998-2009. The plan aimed at redeveloping the IJ banks while ensuring the view of the IJ was preserved.
11. Jan Schaeferbrug
Architect: Ton Venhoeven
Completed: 1991
The bridge planned directly through Pakhuis de Zwijger was the Jan Schaefer Bridge. The bridge was part of the Second Outline Plan for the Eastern Docklands. To both preserve Pakhuis de Zwijger and realize the bridge, the lower floors were removed, allowing the bridge to land in the warehouse.
The bridge is the result of a competition announced in 1996, with four architectural firms submitting designs approved by the municipal project group. The designs by Thijs Verburg/Rob Hoogendijk and Ton Venhoeven were shortlisted. These designs were judged based on beauty and safety. Ultimately, Venhoeven’s design won the competition.
The bridge is characterized by wide bridge piers. Separate traffic flows (motorized traffic and cyclists versus pedestrians) each have their own gradient and landing spot. The roadways span not only the water but also the associated quays. The footpaths land on the quays (Javakade and Veemkade) with a structure reminiscent of gangways. Along these footpaths, grooves are provided for “bike in hand” for those cyclists who cannot or do not dare to climb the steep slopes. To allow large sailing ships to moor in the Java Harbor during Sail Amsterdam, the bridge was built with two removable sections, with the central part and central pier, recognizable by the placed fender, remaining in place.
12. Hotel Jakarta
Architectural Firm: SeARCH
Completed: 2017
In 1990, the former Eastern Docklands area was converted into a residential area. The area was cleaned up and redeveloped according to an urban development plan by Sjoerd Soeters. Initially, a school building was planned for the western tip of the island. This plan was eventually scrapped.
A few years later, a multifunctional building with a school and hotel was designed for this location by the architectural firm SeARCH. This new design included a public function in the form of a public garden. The school program was eventually canceled. Construction started in 2016, and the hotel opened to guests in 2018.
The hotel owes its name to the history of the location. Between 1870 and 1970, ships departed from the western tip of Java Island to the Indies and other Asian countries. This history is also reflected in the hotel’s design. The building is shaped like a VOC ship, and the atrium is decorated with various tropical plants, with the Hortus Botanicus and the Tropenmuseum providing advisory roles.
13. Zeeman op de uitkijk
Artist: Pieter Starreveld
Reinstallation Date: 2003
The statue Sailor on the Lookout stands at the tip of Java Island. The statue represents the sailor Joop Hoorn, a boatswain who worked for the Stoomboot Maatschappij Nederland (SMN). He gazes over the IJ towards the North Sea Canal, waiting for the return of SMN sailors. The statue commemorates the 321 SMN sailors who perished during World War II. On the statue’s pedestal is a plaque with the names In Memoriam, and a separate stone tells the statue’s story.
During the Remembrance Day of 1950, Starreveld’s statue was unveiled at the tip of Java Island. The statue moved with the SMN to the Vlothaven in 1969 and was placed inconspicuously among the buildings. From 1988, the sailor stood at a spot on De Ruyterkade. After the redevelopment of Java Island, the statue was returned to the tip. On May 4, 2003, the statue was unveiled during a commemoration of the victims of World War II.